Interior Decorating

Secrets to Interior Design Photography & Retouching with Lightroom

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I will show you the full shoot from shoot to retouching including using Lightroom HDR and how to deal with different white balances from the inside and the outside.

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23 thoughts on “Secrets to Interior Design Photography & Retouching with Lightroom”

  • jam06477 February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Hello Serge. Thank you for taking your time and energy to make this video. I learned a bunch and wanted to let you know!

  • Pretty Monzter February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    thank you for this amazing tutorial techiniques

  • Agnieszka Malec February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    I love this lesson. It teach me so many new thing. Thanks

  • karl gendron February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    thank you Serge! Another incredible tutorial!

  • Uvas83 February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    beautiful images. Lovely indeed!!!

  • anDrew Reid February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Hang on a minute are you saying the Canon 5d mk2 doesn't have exposure bracketing?

  • Milovan Kuburović February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am


  • Mike Palumbo February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Hello Serge,
    How many stops do you do between shots? 3 shots at +/-1 stop difference or +/-2 stops?


  • véronique El youssfi-Poret February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Have you the same in french ?
    Thank you

  • gregkrazanski February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    wow, these are not only gaudy but they look unnatural (way too much dependence on HDR) and they're compositionally a mess. how about some actual staging and lighting?

  • Benoit Bouts February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    pourquoi toute vos vidéo sont ils en anglais je voudrais les avoir en français merci

  • Brendan Nish February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Hi Serge.
    I'm a huge fan of your work, your cityscapes/landscapes and such are all amazing. However I was trained and spent a few years working in Real Estate/Architecture/Interior Design photography. There's some things that you're not doing that can help a lot in post production.

    When shooting, use an onboard speed light. Expose for the light outside, and fire your flash up at the roof. This illuminates the interior, whilst exposing for the interior. Then in post, you can use this exposure to fix colour cast, to layer in the outside without any painstaking selections (because you can just brush over the door's windows) and you can also use it to bring back details in paintings. In your images the light spills on the painting to the right aren't fixed and you can't see it properly. Using a flash exposure allows you to fix that.

    Of course this is just one exposure that you take amongst your HDR exposures to be used as a layer in PS.

    Just a thought, a technique to expand the toolkit. It really helps.
    Love your work : )

  • laratta February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    What? you dont have a house in Paris and have to live a hotel in your own country?

  • А Булдыгина February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    I know you make tutorials of how other photographers retouch photos. Here I see a great example How this deep green colour can be reached in Lightroom?
    Thank you in advance! You always make great videos!

  • stephane Michaux February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    bonjour et merci Serge, j'ai essayé de vous joindre sur Paris en vain, dommage que nous ne puissions pas nous rencontrer j'aurais tellement aimé vous remercier pour votre aide droit dans les yeux plutôt que derrière un écran ! bonne continuation à vous

  • Russell Swindlehurst February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Another nice video, but ever since you started using the poxy Sony camera, all you do is pull down the 5D Mk 2, you state that the 5D Mk 2 will not bracket images, when everyone knows that it does a great job.

  • music is a secret February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    thx, that is useful!

  • Alessandro Radice February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Hi Serge, it very interesting, but I don't understand at 7:24 min: you say "if we put whites at +21 in the HDR there is nothing burn, if we do the same with the normal raw at +0 it's already burn". Yes that's true, but only because in the HDR file you also put at -53 the highlights. I tried with your photos to do exactly the same settings (highlight, shadows, whites and blacks) on both and yes there is a difference in which part becames burn but there is not a big difference betwin the two photograph. Why?

  • JEFFREY GREEN February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    The brush technique you use to change the temperature of the outside just saved me so much time and stress! Thank you so much! What I normally did was photograph an exposure in a different white balance to match the outside's look and then mask/layer them together in post process.

  • metropolitan6C February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    ce que j'apprécie toujours, c'est votre sens de la pédagogie et, finalement, la simplicité logique qui guide vos choix. merci

  • James Harris February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Serge, you do a lot of long exposures to soften water and stretch out clouds. I stumbled across another technique you might be interested in: When I upgraded to the Canon 5D Mark IV, I noticed the <multiple-exposure> setting and thought this is one of those things I'll never use. HOWEVER, when you are out in the bright sun instead of an ND Filter, you can easily set up a multiple exposure sequence, where you select the number of shots (let's say 9 shots) and then select <additive> and the camera will divide the proper exposure among those shots. It will then combine all of them into one shot. Because the water is moving it will look softened, as well as the sky. But your buildings, bridges and stationary objects will remain sharp. You can either shoot manually, or low speed continuous, or high speed continuous, whatever suites your particular shot.
    Since all of this is done in camera you don't even need Photoshop!

    The camera also does time lapse in camera. You select the duration between shots, then the number of shots, and after taking a test shot launch the time lapse feature. The rear screen turns off and all you see moving is the little LCD screen just in back of the shutter button, with the number of shots remaining. My guess is Canon designed it this way to save battery power and allow very long time lapses without draining the battery. At the end the camera produces a 1080p video of all of your frames. Naturally you can then edit that video later.

    What will they think of next? 🙂

  • canturgan February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Combining exposures (hdr) would make more sense if you re-named over exposure as shadow, normal as mids and under as highlights.

  • Andrei Kostikin February 1, 2018 at 11:52 am

    Is it possible to get better results with layers and brushes in PS? Thanks for the video, it's nice and useful. I did the same techniques for some shoots, but for me it looks too brighty and oversaturated.


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